THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE NAIL MARKET
Just a few seasons ago, a rigid diktat ruled the manicure fashion. Shape and length of the nails, color of the covering, decorations, matte or shiny finish … No detail escaped! Riding the wave of success, brands therefore competed for inspiration to create new trends in a booming market. Whether in terms of technique, where we have known the resin, the gel, then the semi-permanent varnish; the extension with capsules then the installation with Chablon. In terms of length, where we tried everything. In terms of shape, with the round, the square, the square rounded edges, the oval, the pointed, and finally the sharp cut straight edge at the end (are you still with me?). In terms of colors too, where everything has been tested, from pastel to vivid through black and white, the pattern, the decor. Finally, in terms of effects, where we experimented with French, fluo, crackle, metallic, marbled or mirror effect … Finally, where are we today? In this article, we will trace the evolution of the professional nail supplies market and identifies, based on current trends, some development opportunities for your institute.
HOW THE NAIL BECAME ESSENTIAL
In 10 years, the nail has become essential, even if it means wearing a covering that is more natural than natural. As evidenced by the sites devoted to Nail Art which have flourished on the internet, while in town, nail bars have proliferated to offer manicure services with or without an appointment. In addition, in beauty institutes as in mass distribution, the nail polish market has literally exploded: on average, one varnish is sold every 2 seconds in Europe! Suffice to say that from a luxury product, varnish has become a common consumer good that now affects all social categories and all generations. Starting with the youngest, who are also the most fervent consumers. After the 2008 crisis, this phenomenon came at the right time to boost the cosmetics market: between 2006 and 2012, the sale of small colored vials quite simply doubled! This is why nail polish has become the issue in a fierce battle for market share, whether at the manufacturer or distributor level.
FROM THE CONQUEST OF MASS TO THE SEARCH OF NICHES
Whether in terms of varnish or gel, the soaring growth in demand has stimulated the birth of many specialized brands alongside the historic giants of the sector. The race to seduce a versatile consumer keen on novelty has become fierce. Supplier catalogs, formerly limited to a few shades, now contain more than 100 references, trying to differentiate themselves with new shades. No more pink or red. The manufacturers give their innumerable variations poetic names that make you dream like restaurant dishes … To succeed in breaking through, new entrants are now betting on market niches. This is how we recently saw the arrival of “Hallal” varnish, “organic” varnish or semi-permanent peelable varnish. Some are also trying to stick to new consumption habits, for example by offering small new containers that appeal to nail polish collectors.
THE END OF UNIFORMITY
After 10 years in which the “must-haves” have imposed themselves at a breakneck pace, are we finally witnessing a revenge on the part of consumers? 2020 indeed seems to devote the “free-style”: now, everything is done or almost in terms of manicure, as long as you do not wear your nails bare, which will soon become more indecent than going out without panties… The ultimate trend? The refusal of uniformity. The “celebrities”, who are always at the forefront of fashion, are leading by example. This year, we saw stars who wore nude in a short version and rounded ends, while others exhibited dizzying blood red stilettos, mirror nails or colored French …
The other trend that has emerged is changing nails like changing clothes (the two going together). The nail has become the ultimate detail to personalize an outfit, show off your daring and differentiate yourself from girlfriends. Exit the favorite nail polish that we used to the last drop before considering buying another one. A self-respecting manicure kit now contains several varnishes that you can use according to your mood. Some customers have even started collecting them with passion, constantly looking for new nuances.
FROM GEL TO VSP
The success of nail polish, a resale product, has not prevented the service market from continuing to grow in institute. In the past, the line was tight between the supporters of the daily “maintenance free”, addicted to false nails with gel, and the holders of the “natural”, who offered themselves a nail polish on certain occasions. This is much less true today. Indeed, the arrival on the market of semi-permanent varnish (or VSP) has changed mentalities. Quick to apply or remove (almost) like a varnish, but with a hold of two weeks (almost) like gel, the VSP is a compromise that appeals to a growing number of consumers. Especially since it is an accessible service, generally offered in a price range of 20 to 25 euros. Unlike false nails, it appeals to occasional customers, who appreciate being able to remove their PSV at home with a special acetone remover. We have even recently seen a new generation of VSP which can be removed by lifting them like a second skin (their hold is however more ephemeral) … Unlike the gel which constitutes a ripe product, the VSP is in full (r) evolution. This is the new flagship product that brands are betting on, as seen at the last Cosmoprof’s in Hong Kong, where it was the undisputed star of the nail hall.
Three trends were presented:
- faster protocols (without base or top coat)
- VSPs landing without a lamp
- “peelable” VSPs
Hailed by the VSP, the gel nail market has become more professional. Indeed, today, customers demand more than dress. The gel service is often associated with an artistic work of “nail art” with nail extensions and creation of patterns or decorations … Unlike the VSP, these techniques, which require regular practice and constant updating, are reserved. to highly qualified prosthetists.
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